Celebrating India’s post-independence drinking dens where great food and good company go hand in hand, Dishoom Permit Room has established a firm place in Brighton’s restaurant scene. An all-day bar-café serving the best of Bombay, you can treat yourself to everything from breakfasts to beautiful curries, bar snacks and cocktails with a twist.
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From the moment we walked in for our dinner reservation, we were wrapped in a cosy, intimate atmosphere. Saturday hustle and bustle was present, but not in an overwhelming way. The warm lighting of the rooms, the scent of spices and the clinking cocktail glasses around us gave me a feeling that this was about to be a good meal.
Once we sat down, it was time for the impossible decision of what to eat. Their menu sets the tone with its cheeky “Not Poppadoms” starter section, a clear nod to the fact that this is not just another Indian restaurant. The Peanut Masala, consisting of roasted peanuts tossed with tomato, onion, coriander, chilli and lime was an addictive starter. Fresh yet salty with an onion kick… I could’ve happily eaten a whole bowl solo. The Chilli Cheesy Garlic Naan Bites stuffed with melted cheddar and a hit of green chilli were moreish and delicious. In fact, after their garlicky, gooey goodness, I’m not sure garlic bread will ever taste the same again…
From their Savouries section, the Chicken Pick-Me-Ups were an instant favourite. These perfectly juicy, slightly battered chicken drumsticks had a light but crisp coating, and were perfectly lovely on their own. However, paired with the tangy red chilli chutney that they came with, they were lifted to another level.
Then came our showstopper, the Prawn Moilee, a South Indian coconut curry. Turmeric, curry leaves, ginger, garlic… I was taken aback by how fragrant it was. Creamy, coconutty and full of depth with huge, perfectly cooked prawns. It’s a dish I’d come back for again and again. It is also a safe choice if you’re not too sure about hot spiciness.
The Chicken Berry Britannia biryani was another win; impossibly tender chicken, aromatic rice and the sweet cranberries that seriously lifted every bite. One of my favourites of the night, the Tenderstem Broccoli was grilled to perfection and served with a chilli and lime dressing. It was so fresh and bright, giving balance all-round.
I also heard our fellow diners mention the Dishoom Black Daal, which I later learned is something of a legendary classic of theirs. Slow-cooked for 24 hours until it’s rich and dark with comforting depth. I didn’t try it this time, but after hearing multiple people rave about it, I know exactly what I’ll be coming back for next.
Dishoom’s drinks are just as exciting as the food, and it is a fantastic spot if you’re just after some fun cocktails too. The Chai Caffè Martini was smooth and indulgent with a hint of chai spices. The Orange Wine Margarita was a sweet, fresh twist on the traditional one, with almond bitters. To finish our meal, we went with the Mango Lassi Punch which was creamy, spiced and refreshing. Perfect dessert nightcap.
Service throughout the evening was amazing: warm, attentive, enthusiastic staff who knew the menu like the back of their hands. They didn’t shy from helping us with our difficulty in choosing our dishes either! We ended our evening outside on their patio set-up, sipping our cocktails with the buzz of a Saturday night in Brighton around us.
A good meal out isn’t just about quality ingredients or beautifully plated dishes; it’s about the combination of everything that comes with great food as well as the atmosphere around you. What the team behind Dishoom Permit Room has created is an experience that encompasses everything you’d want: flavourful plates of gorgeous food, exciting cocktails, lovely service and a cosy venue. It’s a fabulous time that I’d recommend to anyone.
Address: 32 East St, Brighton, BN1 1HL
Website: permitroom.co.uk
