Running along King’s Cliff to Black Rock sits Kemptown. Home to both the creative arts scene and LGBTQ+ community in Brighton, it’s difficult to experience Kemptown in a day.
Providing an eclectic mix of independent cafes, grassroots theatres, vintage clothing shops, bars and restaurants, day or night, Kemptown has you covered.
The History Of Kemptown
Brighton’s historic evolution from a fishing village to a fashionable spa for the upper class and aristocracy gave rise to a demand for luxury seaside estates for the wealthy. Fuelled by the love that George IV, then Prince of Wales, had for the area, this drive birthed the first foundations of the area we know as Kemptown. Famous regency housing estates include, J.B. Otto’s Royal Crescent built in the late 18th century and Thomas Reed Kemp’s Kemp Town estate, note the name, which was constructed in 1855.
During this migration, Kemptown, one word, came to represent the centre of the artistic and thespian world of the city. The proximity to London combined with the ability to live by the sea, created a continued growth of artists, actors and writers to Kemptown in the 1920s and 30s, building on the groundwork that had started when the east part of the city first laid down foundations.
With Brighton serving as the LGBTQ+ capital of the country, Kemptown sits at the epicentre of this community, with the area providing a safe haven for the community since the 19th century. Though it began covertly, now Kemptown is out and proud with longstanding venues like Bulldog, The Camelford Arms and The Marlborough catering to this ever-growing community.
The Neighbourhood And Its Architecture
Located on the east side of Brighton, Kemptown sits between the city centre of Brighton and Brighton Marina. Closely following the coastline, the sounds of the sea can be heard from the area and it’s a short walk down to the seafront. The Old Steine which sits parallel to Brighton Pier serves as the informal border between what is Kemptown and what is Brighton city centre.
As is the way with all parts of Brighton, the best way to get to Kemptown is to walk. Whether you’re making your way from Brighton Station or Hove, walking to Kemptown takes you through the hustle and bustle of Brighton, past the ever-impressive Royal Pavilion Palace and Gardens, and straight into Kemptown.
Though if the weather isn’t so picturesque and you’ve got a limited amount of time, you can reach Kemptown by any number of buses which take you into the heart of the district. The number 7, for example, runs from Hove Train Station to Brighton Marina by way of Brighton Train Station and Kemptown. Alternatively, the 1, 1A and the Big Lemon bus numbers 47 and 47A will take you where you need to go.
One of the first things visitors will notice when they enter is the architecture. A mix of late Regency development coupled with Victorian modernisation with an added dash of concrete structures from the 1960s. The effect of this is an area that is brimming with character, each building time stamped so much that they provide a direct link to the past and the phases of development the area has undergone. This patchwork landscape gives the impression that the structures almost sit on top of each other, side streets twist and turn, revealing hidden gems to those visitors who explore, such as Bar Broadway and The Actors Pub.
Where To Go When Visiting Kemptown – Shopping, Restaurants, Cafes & Pubs
Literally and figuratively packed, the best way to experience Kemptown is to veer away from the main high street, turn Maps off and wander. Explore Camelford Street, most famously home to social reformer Jacob Holyoake (1817 – 1906) and visitors can find The Camelford Arms, take a shortcut via St George’s Road you’ll find some of the city’s best restaurants such as Suriya’s Thai Kitchen, an authentic Thai restaurant that opened in 2017 and which makes its own curry pastes, cooking and dipping sauces on a daily basis, VEL Brighton, one of the best South Indian restaurants in Brighton, and the Castles of Kemptown Deli, described as a jewel of a deli due to the warm service and delicious sandwiches. The area’s history sits on every curb in Kemptown, most notably the Sassoon Mausoleum, the elegant Indo-Saracenic structure that was once the former burial chamber of British businessman and politician Edward Sassoon (1818 – 1896) and the Sassoon family.
Kemptown’s high streets and side streets also offer some of the best charity and vintage clothing shops, demonstrating it doesn’t have to cost the earth to look good. Grab a coffee at the beautifully pink and cheerful family-run business, Little Miss Piggies café, and peruse the clothing racks at Dog’s Trust, Martlets, Oxfam and Mind, where you can get your hands on designer finds and unique pieces.
The area loves its vintage finds, with more waiting to be discovered at Kemptown Trading Post, located on St. George’s Road, the area’s answer to not just all your vintage clothing needs but antique furniture and collectables, sharing the space is the Cup of Joe café, to keep you caffeinated and ready to spot a deal.
Other notable cafes include Marmalade, situated further into Kemptown, past the Royal Sussex Hospital, on Eastern Road. Opening its doors in 2013, the café has gone from strength to strength utilising local links to supply fresh pasta, cheese, bread, milk and as you might have guessed marmalades and jams. This independent spot is another example of the area’s ability to surprise you, offering home-cooked pastries, cakes and sandwiches made with some of the nicest bread tasted.
Sea Lanes In Kemptown
A stroll along Marine Parade will take you to the very estate that started it all, Royal Crescent, its halls reconverted into some of the most in-demand apartments in the area. Further down to the seafront lies Madeira Terrace, an 865m long stretch of Victorian cast iron arches and walkway. Built between 1890 and 1897, a restoration project is under discussion due to structure disrepair and formal closure in 2012, visitors can walk along the the intricately decorated structure and marvel at the distinctive décor that harks back to a different time, a piece of living history.
Whilst on this path the Sea Lanes can be discovered. Opening in June 2023, the Sea Lanes boasts the UK’s first national open water swimming centre. Accompanied by an array of restaurants and bars such as FIKA, Bison Beach Bar, Wood X Coal and White Cloud Coffee Co, the site is also the home to Beach Box Sauna, Luna Wave Yoga and The Body Hub for those looking to heal their mind as well as their body.
The Ultimate Brighton Pride Location
Kemptown’s artistic tenacity shines through with festivals such as The Brighton Fringe Festival and, of course, Pride. The former, taking place across four weeks from May to June every year, Kemptown, as well as Brighton, serves as a stage for some of the best up-and-coming performances and events that the U.K. has to offer. The largest annual arts festival in England descends on Kemptown’s pubs, venues and theatres making you laugh and cry to your heart’s content. Though definitely quieter than Pride, it’s worth the trip to Kemptown to experience the transformation which settles in the area giving the streets a notable buzz that starts and ends with the fringe festival.
To say that Kemptown in Brighton celebrates Pride is an understatement, any attempt at a description would fall flat. On the first weekend of August, the city roads are closed and the area is transformed from head to toe, rainbow flags, bunting and lights decorate every inch of every structure, and music blares from ginormous outdoor speakers as people dance in the streets, their balconies and the bus-stop roof that they usually huddle under to avoid rain on the Monday morning commute.
Locals and visitors spill out onto the miniature side streets arms laden with drinks that they hand to faces covered in biodegradable glitter. It’s the event of the year and the streets become the backdrop for day’s events.
Packed to rafters with some of the best places to eat, drink, shop and dance to, Kemptown seeps history and its stories sit with visitors today. Perhaps one of the most charming places in the area, it’s worth spending as much time as possible there. A welcoming place to all regardless of class, creed, race or religion its atmosphere is one of pride and celebration.
